June 2, 2011 Guwahati, State of Assam, India
The first of the monsoon style rainstorms started this morning, but when the storm ended our Principal Madam Monica took us in her car on a field trip to visit Kamamhya Temple. This is one of the holiest of Hindu pilgrimage sites in the sub-continent atop Nilachal Hill which is a huge stone mountain overlooking Guwahati. The temple dome architecturally looks like an ornate beehive cone. This temple does not have an idol or image of the Mother Goddess and is over 4000 years old. Winding, back switch roads allow motor traffic close to the top and there are amazing views of the Brahmaputra River and the sprawling city of Guwahati. The final distance up to the temple must be walked along a path where there are many small vendors and shops selling temple offerings and souvenirs to the thousands of people that pass. Madam Principal arranged this special visit for us and took part of the day off from her busy office schedule at school to take us to the temple and make her personal sacrifice as a practicing Hindu. Mrinali, our host teacher, went along to help interpret what we experienced too.
As we approached the temple, the path changed and there was a beautiful pink marble center walk to follow up to the temple. Our priest, dressed in vermillion and saffron colors, met us and escorted us the final distance to the area of ritual foot washing. We dropped our shoes at a stall and went to the first location to wash our feet. Mrinali and Madam Principal said prayers and made an offering then we were marked with vermillion on our foreheads. The priest left us and went to make a sacrifice on our behalf in a separate area of the temple complex out of view. As we waited for him to return, we could observe the tremendous line of people already there at 9:00am waiting for a chance to make their offering in the free line. On the grounds were monkeys and cows wandering freely about, and sacrificial goats and pigeons were inside the temple complex marked with vermillion to show they were sacrificed to the gods. Our hosts explained that the Hindu priests must sacrifice an animal once a day at noon on the altar. Surrounding the temple were the residences of the priests. At Kamakhya Temple there are about 5000 priests!
When our priest returned we were escorted around to a less crowded entrance to the temple to enter down into the massive stone interior. The crush of the faithful people inside cannot be described. Some of the men fervently shouted praise as they entered this area, one prostrated himself at one of the side altars and the emotion around us was INTENSE. We soon were swept in the masses to the most holy center of the shrine which is protected by huge high-relief ornamented silver doors- absolutely beautiful and very ancient. The holy area was very dark and uneven stone steps had to be carefully managed to descend near the altar area. Madam Principal said there was no restriction against approaching this area. There was incense burning and vermillion, flowers and money offerings covered the altar area. It was necessary to touch the water around the base of the altar. The faithful Hindus put this water on their heads and prayed. I had never touched or seen anything this ancient in all my travels. As we passed through the rest of the temple there were side altars covered in vermillion and flower offerings, but the space was very confined with massive stone all around and narrow paths to travel. We were part of a river of people flowing through the temple.
After we exited the temple we passed through an area where there were many differently sized brass bells hanging on racks. We each rang a bell as we walked by them. The mark of vermillion and the red band tied around our forehead showed that we had been to the temple today. Our priest gave us a special sweet meat made of boiled milk to eat.
I teach in a Roman Catholic school and am a practicing Catholic too. I was struck by some similarities in the rituals common to both faiths. I completed a Venn Diagram in my journal with differences noted, but for this reflection I would like to focus on the ritual signs we have in common. The most striking common symbol was the use of water on hands, heads and feet. There are altars where reverence is shown and an emphasis on blood sacrifice. Both faiths use incense in ritual, although the Hindu faith requires much heavier use. We call our leaders in religious rites priests and prayers are recited with heads bowed and eyes closed. There is an emphasis on alms giving and flowers are used to honor. Side altars are present in the holy spaces and are clearly defined areas. In all the schools we have visited in India it is permitted to pray and is part of the start of each day, just like my Catholic school in Cordova, Tennessee.
India gave birth to Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism and Sikhism. About 81% of Indians practice Hinduism which is not a religion but a “way of life.” About 13% of Indians are Muslims with 2% of the population following the Sikh religion. Buddhists and Jains are each about 1% and less than 3% are Christians in India. I used the Culture Gram provided by IREX as my source for these statistics. I rode by Don Bosco Catholic Church and School earlier this week not too far from the government center of the city. From the outside it was a very impressive church. Julie, one of my new teacher friends from Maharishi School, told me it is the primary location for Catholic services, Holy Days and the Easter and Christmas services in this region. I saw two Missionary Sisters of Charity (Mother Theresa’s Order) out on the streets of Guwahati. We passed by a sign pointing toward their mission here. It was so good to see a familiar sight so unexpectedly here in India.
I will close this spiritual blog with some quotes:
At the depth of silence stays Buddha.
Life fumbles for the presence of THEE in the midst of chaos.
Author: Karabi Kakoti (poet and parent of child at Maharishi Vidya Mandir School)
Eye hath not seen, nor ear heard, neither have entered into the heart of man,
The things which God hath prepared for those who love Him.
The Holy Bible 1 Corinthians 2:9
Life fumbles for the presence of THEE in the midst of chaos.
Author: Karabi Kakoti (poet and parent of child at Maharishi Vidya Mandir School)
Eye hath not seen, nor ear heard, neither have entered into the heart of man,
The things which God hath prepared for those who love Him.
The Holy Bible 1 Corinthians 2:9
Sandra went through the text. Great Views.
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